The city on a hill

For the legions of college students who have called Boston home (in this, the world’s biggest college town), it’s always been known as the “hub”. But that term actually came from writer and jurist Oliver Wendell Holmes who wrote in 1858 that Boston was “the hub of the solar system”. Whether or not you buy into that grandiose vision of Boston’s importance, there’s no denying that it’s one of America’s most cosmopolitan and sophisticated cities, and a delight to visit. Hopefully, the 24-hour itinerary below will prove the point.

8 a.m. - 9 a.m.: Start the day with a trip back in time, to 1927 to be precise, when Charlie’s Sandwich Shoppe first opened. Though its name suggests lunch, the low-key Charlie’s, with its old-fashioned vinyl stools and formica countertops, has long been famous for its breakfasts, served until 2:30 p.m. in the afternoon. Most popular is the turkey hash, a huge disc of potatoes and turkey topped with eggs; but there are also a variety of griddlecakes stuffed with decadent treats like chocolate chips, raspberries or banana and pecans. Beyond keeping customers satisfied for decades, Charlie’s has a proud ethical history: back before the civil rights movement, Charlie’s was one of the few diners in this area to serve customers of all races.

9 a.m. - noon: Walk the Freedom Trail. You won’t be able to traverse the entire trail in just a morning—this line of red paint (or red brick) that leads strollers to most of Boston’s most important Colonial and Revolutionary War sites is almost three miles long---but you should be able to take in a central chunk of it, from Boston Commons to Faneuil Hall. If you’d prefer to have a guide with you, stop at the Boston National Historic Park Visitor Center which offers free tours several times daily from mid-April to November. If you decide to go it on your own, be sure to build in time to fully explore such stops as Faneuil Hall Marketplace, Boston’s #1 tourist site and a prime spot for foodies (you may want to lunch here); and Paul Revere’s House. And remember: Boston is a living, breathing city, so look up from the plaques and Federalist homes every once in a while and take in the ever-changing cityscape.

MORNING ALTERNATIVE
Join the hunt---the hunt for great shoes, that is. Head to Newbury Street, Boston’s low-key answer to Rodeo Drive in LA or the Ginza district in Tokyo, for its tempting mix of chain stores and unique, only-in-Beantown boutiques. Whether you need clothing or housewares or  artworks or books or toys or…well, you get the picture…you’ll find it here. It’s not an exaggeration to say that Newberry Street offers some of the best shopping in New England, and that goes as much for window shopping as wandering around (admiring the goods and architecture can be as engrossing as actually buying).

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Noon-2 p.m.: Lunch: Chef Todd English may now be an international culinary superstar, but he returns to his fishy Boston roots at Kingfish Hall. If you’ve done the Freedom Trail, you can simply double back to Faneuil Hall to eat here. And then you take in a real show. Tired of Boston’s stodgy old fishhouses, English has glitzed up the formula, with chic, non-nautical décor, and as part of that decor a “dancing fish grill” that twirls the fish over the flames; and a huge, steaming lobster pot that’s bathed in what I can only call “stripper-lights”---it’s a hoot. All of this wouldn’t matter a whit, of course, if the food wasn’t top quality, which it is, whether you order the smoky house chowder, the opulent shellfish platter or the Thai-spiced bouillabaisse, a masterful rethinking of that old standard.

2 p.m. - 5 p.m.: You may have visited Paul Revere’s Home in the morning; now take a look at some of the silver wares he created. They’re housed, along with thousands of other masterworks (over 450,000 in all), at the Museum of Fine Arts. Whatever your artistic tastes, they should be sated here. Like Impressionism? The MIA has one of the largest collections of Monets outside of France. Interested in American history (and why are you in Boston if you’re not?) The museum displays some of the finest and most famous Yankee portraits anywhere, including Gilbert Stuart’s 1796 George Washington and John Singleton Copley’s 1768 rendering of Paul Revere. Fascinated by Japan? You’ll view samurai arms and armor, 14^th century Buddhist statues, famous prints and more, in what is arguably one of the finest collections of Japanese art in the US. Free guided tours offered throughout the day offer a superb overview of the collection, so inquire about them when you pay your admissions fee.

AFTERNOON ALTERNATIVE
Or walk another trail. One of the greatest delights of Boston is simply ambling about, and the Black Heritage Trail, a 1.6 mile trek through Beacon Hill, offers a fascinating look at the history of African-Americans in this area. Along with stations on the Underground Railroad and the first integrated public school, you’ll be able to go inside both the African Meeting House and the Abiel Smith School, which are part of the Museum of Afro-American History. Guided tours are available free, year-round (either scheduled or by request); or you can walk the trail on your own using a brochure picked up at the Visitors Center.

5:30 p.m. - 7:15 p.m.: If you thought New England cuisine was all chowders and roasts, you’ll learn otherwise with a meal at the oh-so-gourmet Lespalier. Here chef Frank McLelland takes the fruits of the area—fiddlehead ferns, locally raised rabbit, lamb or squab, wheatberries and halibut from Maine—and constructs a meal that’s simultaneously French (you get a lot of geles, meunieres and paves), proudly all-American and downright delicious. A great place for that special occasion meal, it’s in the Back Bay, set in an 1886 townhouse.

7:30-10 p.m.: What better way to follow a refined meal than with a concert by one of the best symphonies in the United States. Whether it’s in its all-out classical mode (from October-April) or its Boston Pops, light and fun season (May-July), the Boston Symphony Orchestra never fails to delight. Currently under the baton of world-famous conductor James Levine, its concerts often sell out far in advance, so be sure to get a ticket as soon as you know the dates you’ll be in town.

10 p.m. - 2 a.m.: In Beantown, the nightclubs close at 2am by law, but you can get a good amount of partying done in those four hours. Head to Avalon, where you’ll groove on the history as much as the dance tunes. In the 60’s this club was known as the Ark, and it was here that the infamous Boston “tea” parties of that era took place. When disco came in so did Steve Rubel and Ian Schraeger, and their success with their club 15 Lansdowne spurred them on to open their even more famous Studio 54 in New York City. In 1999, after a multi-million dollar renovation, Avalon was born and today, this huge club (it can hold up to 2000) is known for attracting some of the best DJ’s in the biz (especially on Friday nights when a squadron of costumed dancers take to the stage).