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Carpaccio De Courgette Au Vinaigre De Framboise (Zucchini Carpaccio with Raspberry Vinegar)
Clotilde Dusoulier

Serves 6 as a starter

The original carpacio is a dish of thinly sliced raw beef that was created at Harry’s Bar in Venice in 1950. It was named in honor of the fifteenth-century Venetian painter Vittore Carpaccio, who favored red colors in his paintings. The term is now used for various dishes that feature raw and thinly sliced ingredients, red or not, even though this admittedly betrays the etymology.

This carpaccio is a good introduction to the crisp and lightly sweet nature of raw zucchini. It should be made with the freshest zucchini you can find, slender young things with smooth skin and firm flesh. Late spring or summer is the best time to pluck them at the farmer’s market, or in your own vegetable garden if you’re fortunate enough to have one (in which case I think you should ship me a crate, thanks much). 

INGREDIENTS

3 small zucchini
3 ounces semidry goat cheese (log shaped or round), crumbled or cut in shavings
2 tablespoons raspberry vinegar (substitute another kind of fruit vinegar)
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon fresh thyme or 1 1/2 teaspoons dried thyme
Fleur de sel or kosher salt
Freshly ground pepper

DIRECTIONS

1. Trim the zucchini and cut it in paper-thin slices, using a sharp knife or a mandoline. Arrange in a circular pattern (starting from the outside and working your way in, each slice overlapping the previous one) on individual plates. Sprinkle the cheese over the slices.

2. Whisk together the vinegar and olive oil in a small bowl and drizzle over the zucchini and cheese. Sprinkle with thyme, salt, and pepper. Cover with plastic wrap and let it stand at room temperature for 10 minutes before serving.

Raspberry vinegar is made from fresh raspberries macerated in white wine vinegar for a few months. This tangy and fruity condiment can be found in fine foods stores, and will be a prized addition to your vinegar collection: a few drops will as sparkle to your vinaigrettes, sauces, and marinades, especially for fish or duck.

Variations: Use balsamic vinegar in the place of raspberry vinegar, and shavings of Parmesan or crumbled feta instead of goat cheese. You can also toss the zucchini with the rest of the ingredients in a bowl, and serve it as a salad.

Wine: FREIXENET BRUT DE NOIRS, CAVA ROSE (Spain, Catalonia, sparkling rose) This fresh and mouthwatering bubbly wine displays notes of strawberry and raspberry. It is light enough to respect the delecate zucchini flavor, but it has enough tang and acidity to stand up to the vinegar.

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Broadway Books

Biscuits Tres Chocolat (Very Chocolate Cookies)
Clotilde Dusoulier

Makes about 4 dozen bite-size cookies

If chocolate shops were chocolate chips, Paris would be one super-loaded cookie. The city is blessed with dozens of excellent chocolatiers, fine artisans who pride themselves on selecting the best chocolate, or even producing their own cacao beans.

Whenever I walk by one of these shops, my feet propel me inside of their own accord, I take deep breaths to stock up on the rich scents, study the selection carefully, ask the salesperson for advice, and walk away with the chocolate bar of my choice, elegantly wrapped and safely tucked at the bottom of my purse—were I to be the victim of pickpockets, I’d rather loose my wallet.

As a result, I always have one or two or six half-eaten bars in my secret chocolate stash (why I keep it a secret is beyond me, since Maxence doesn’t even like the bitter-sweet stuff I favor), from which a break off little chinks to savor with my post-lunch coffee shot.

As far as espresso companions go, it’s hard to beat a simple square of ebony chocolate, but these tiny turbocharged cookies follow very closely. Crisp and crumbly, they get their intense chocolate flavor from four different sources: the velvet of melted chocolate, the smooth bite of chocolate chunks, the strength of cocoa powder, and the raw crunch of cacao nibs.

INGREDIENTS

1/2 cup all purpose flour
1/2 cup whole wheat flour
1/4 unsweetened Dutch-processs cocoa powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
5 ounces good-quality bittersweet chocolate
1/4 cup roasted cacoa nibs (see page 230)
1/2 cup (1 stick) plus 1 tablespoon unsalted butter, at room temperature
1/2 cup (packed) light brown sugar
1/2 teaspoon fleur de sel or kosher salt (or 1/4 teaspoon fine sea salt)
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

DIRECTIONS

1. In a medium mixing bowl, sift together the flours, cocoa powder, and baking soda. Set aside.

2. Melt half of the chocolate (2 ½ ounces) in a double boiler or in a heatproof bowl set over a pan of simmering water, stirring from time to time to dissolve. Set aside. Chop the remaining 2 ½ ounces chocolate into chip-size bits, combine with the cacoa nibs, and set aside.

3. Put the butter in a food processor and process until creamy (you can also do this in a medium mixing bowl with a sturdy spatula). Add the sugar, salt, and vanilla, and mix until combined. Add the melted chocolate and mix again.

4. Add the reserved flour mixture and mix until just combined. Transfer the dough into the bowl you used for the flour mix: the next step needs to be done by hand. Fold the chopped chocolate and cacoa nibs into the dough, working with a wooden spoon and/or your hands. The dough will be quite think; don’t overmix it.

5. Cover the dough with plastic wrap and chill for 20 minutes. (You can chill it for up to a day—the dough will be a bit harder, but it will soften as you work with it. You can also wrap it tightly and freeze for up to a month.)

6. Preheat the over to 350° F and line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Remove the dough from the fridge. Carve out rounded teaspoons of dough, shape them into slightly flattened balls with the tips of your fingers, and place them on the prepared baking sheet, separating them by ½ inch. Bake for 10 to 12 minutes, until the tops are just set: the cookies will still be a little soft, but they will harden as they cool. Transfer the sheet of parchment paper cautiously to a rack and let cool completely. The cookies will keep for 4 days in a airtight container at room temperature, or they can be frozen for up to a month.

Variation: Add ½ to 1 teaspoon of ground piment d’Espelette (or any moderately hot ground chile powder) to the flour mixture: the heat of chile is a remarkable match to the warmth of the chocolate.

Chilling time: 20 minutes

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Clotilde Dusoulier is the writer of the popular food blog Chocolate & Zucchini and author of the cookbook "Chocolate and Zucchini: Daily Adventures in a Parisian Kitchen."



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