Skip navigation

Positively perfect Quebec City

Can't go to Europe? Visit this charming and unique Canadian hideaway

Image: The Chateau Frontenac
Mathieu Belanger / Reuters file
The Fairmont Chateau Frontenac stands high on a bluff overlooking the St. Lawrence River in the heart of Old Quebec. Quebec City will celebrate its 400th anniversary of foundation in 2008.
Slide show
Gare du Palais Fountain in Quebec City
  Unique Canadian hideaway
Positively perfect Quebec City will set your heart a-flutter.

more photos

Special to msnbc.com
updated 12:42 p.m. ET June 4, 2007

Honeymooner alert: if Paris is too pricey for you, Maui too sandy and Niagara Falls too kitschy, choose Quebec City. With the castle-like Chateau Frontenac looming up over the skyline, horses and carriages clip clopping down the cobble-stoned streets, and sweet sidewalk cafes seemingly on every corner (perfect for canoodling over a carafe of red wine), there are few places in the world as gosh darn romantic. Really. Even a short 24 hours here is sure to set your heart a-flutterin’.

8:30 a.m. - 9:30 a.m.: Grab a quickie breakfast crepe at Le Casse-Crepe Breton, stuffed with eggs, sausage and whatever else your vacationing stomach craves (heck, you could even start the day out with a nutella crepe; at this 18-hour-a-day eatery, very few orders raise an eyebrow).

9:30 - noon: Dragons, 17th century printmaking, the cartoon character Tintin’s take on Peru, the peoples of Quebec, Audubon’s birds—head to Quebec’s quirky, innovative Musee de la Civilisation to immerse yourself in these and other wide-ranging topics.

Story continues below ↓
advertisement | your ad here

Morning Alternative
Wait for the Americans to invade at The Citadel. Built by the Duke of Wellington after the War of 1812, it’s stood ready and happily untested all these years, occupied by the 22nd regiment, the only French speaking unit in the Canadian army. Get there before 10 a.m. if you’re visiting in summer, to witness the impressive changing of the guard ceremony. Afterwards, walk over to the Parc de l'Artillerie, where costumed guides will lead you around the officer’s quarters, mess and a foundry. If you still have time to kill before lunch, make your way to the café- and shop-lined Rue St. Jean.

Noon - 1:30 p.m.:
Order up a steaming bowl of moules (mussels), perhaps a slab of pate or a steak frites, and a half carafe of red wine at the picture-perfect bistro, Le Cafe du Monde. Only the view through the huge plate glass windows will betray the fact that you’re not actually enjoying this meal on the Left Bank of Paris.

1:30 - 6 p.m.: Stroll the oldest street in North America (well, at least that’s what the Québécoise claim), the Rue du Petit-Champlain, turning off when you’re near the Verrerie Mailloloche for properly old-timey glass blowing demonstrations. Double back to explore the Maison Chevalier, a historic house built in 1752; today it houses a small museum. Other important 17th, 18th and 19th century bas ville (lower city) plazas and buildings that you’ll want to hit include: the Royal Battery, the Place Royal, the Eglise Notre Dame de Victiores, the Maison Lambert Dumont and the Old Port (with its well done interpretation center).

Afternoon Alternative
Get active—how you do it will depend upon the season. In winter, a toboggan run is created down the stairs at the Terasse Dufferin. Or try Dog Sledding on a half-day expedition from Adventures Nord du Bec; its base of operations is only about half an hour from the city. If you’re visiting in the warmer months, head to Parc de la Jacques Cartier, for spectacularly scenic canoeing, fishing or hiking.

7 p.m. - 9 p.m.: Try to reserve a kitchen-view table, so that you can watch chef Daniel Vezina whip up the innovative, fusion cuisine that’s become his signature at restaurant Laurie Raphael. Using classic French cooking techniques, he marries many of the hearty ingredients of French Canada—caribou, venison, maple syrup and the like—to lighter, healthier sauces and vegetables, often from the Asian palette. A true foodie experience.

9 p.m.  - on … Ramp up the evening slowly. Start with a serene moonlit amble on the Terrasse Dufferin; the view of the river and the lower town are sumptuous here, even at night. Stop into the Chateau Frontenac to explore its famous lobby and down a drink at its clubby bar. Then head to the bustling Grand-Allee or take in the slightly less party-hearty scene on the Rue St. Jean; both venues offer live music, convivial pubs, and opportunities for dancing.

  24-Hour Layover: Quebec City

Pauline Frommer is the creator of the new Pauline Frommer guides in bookstores now. Her book, Pauline Frommer's New York, was named Best Guidebook of the Year by the North American Travel Journalists Association.