The ultimate family guide to Cape Cod

By Suzanne Rowan Kelleher

updated 8:47 p.m. ET July 10, 2007

This insider’s guide to Cape Cod was compiled with recommendations from the readers of WeJustGotBack.com.

Hermit crabs, mussels, and fireflies. Scents of salty air, freshly mowed grass, and honeysuckle. Going barefoot and swinging in a hammock. Days filled with long bike rides, sandcastles, and mini golf. Evenings spent watching drive-in movies and amateur baseball games.

There’s something so comfortingly timeless about Cape Cod, with its 15 yesteryear towns seemingly plucked from a Norman Rockwell painting. The Cape Cod National Seashore has ensured that precious little development has been allowed on almost 30 miles of the Atlantic coast. In the off-season, it’s possible to walk for half a day along this stretch of pristine beach and see little or no trace of humankind. In many of the picture-postcard towns, an awful lot remains the same from one generation to the next, thanks to designated National Historic districts that preserve architectural integrity. And best of all, the Cape is accessible and user-friendly. Well-marked trails have turned a vast area of the peninsula into a pedestrian’s and cyclist’s paradise, allowing an up-close look at the amazingly diverse topography of pine forests, marshes, cranberry bogs, and over 150 exceptional beaches.

Can’t make it this summer? There’s plenty of appeal long after the summer crowds have disappeared. In the fall, prices are lower and the bay water often stays warm enough for swimming as late as October.

Get Your Bearings
Cape Cod is famously shaped like an arm jutting into the Atlantic, elbow bent and fist turned back toward the mainland. Habitués speak of the Upper Cape (shoulder), Mid Cape (bicep), Lower Cape (elbow), and Outer Cape (up to the fist), but wherever you are, you’re never far from water. Cape Cod Bay washes gently over the western shores, the open Atlantic Ocean pounds the Cape’s eastern coast, and Nantucket Sound laps up against the southern beaches.

Pick up a copy of Kids on the Cape, a free publication available at many shops, hotels, and attractions. Inside you’ll find listings for many kid-friendly attractions and eateries plus dozens of money-saving coupons.

Most fun ways to get around
1. Bicycle. A family bike ride along the 25-mile Cape Cod Rail Trail is one of the most scenic ways to explore. The trail runs from South Dennis to South Wellfleet, following the now-paved route of the long-defunct Penn Central Railroad along terrain that’s “generally flat, so it’s great for kids.” Along the way, you’ll pass salt marshes, cranberry bogs, and ponds. Temptations for a detour off the trail include Nickerson State Park, which has its own bike path and “some great catch-and-release fishing.” You needn’t ride the entire trail. There are conveniently located parking lots in Harwich (on Pleasant Lake Drive), in Brewster (at Nickerson State Park), and in Eastham (at the Salt Pond Visitor Center). You can rent bikes from various shops near the trail in towns such as Dennis, Brewster, and Eastham.

2. Car. A favorite drive is along the north shore’s Route 6A (a.k.a. Old King’s Highway), through some of the Cape’s oldest towns dating from the mid-1600s. “It’s eye candy for the eyes and soul.”

Best views
1. Cape Cod Highland Lighthouse (Highland Rd., North Truro). The Queen Ann-style lighthouse has been in operation since 1857, though it was moved back from the cliffs in 1996 because of erosion. It’s the tallest lighthouse on the Cape and offers “achingly beautiful views of the Atlantic” from the 120-foot observation deck.

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2. Scargo Tower (Scargo Hill Rd., East Dennis). This observation post sits atop the highest hill on the Cape. “Climb it and you’ll enjoy a spectacular view of Cape Cod Bay.”

3. Sunrise from an east-facing beach. “Nauset Beach, in Orleans, is spectacular.”

4. Sunset from a west-facing beach. “A great choice is First Encounter Beach, in Eastham.” Another good pick on the bay is “Duck Harbor Beach, in Wellfleet. You can watch the sun set over the water, which is calm and perfect for little swimmers.”

Don’t miss events
1. Wellfleet Drive-in Theater double feature (Rte. 6, between Eastham and Wellfleet; 508/349-7176). Built in 1957, this movie-lover’s delight hosts an enormous screen measuring 100 feet by 44 feet “and a state-of-the-art FM stereo sound system.” You can enjoy “first run double features most every night,” where there’s typically a G-rated family flick, followed by something more grown up. Kids will love that “there is a playground and snack bar, too.”

2. Cape Cod Baseball League game (nightly at various venues; games most often start at 5 p.m. or 7 p.m.; mid-June to mid-August). Every summer since 1885, this amateur league offers the chance to watch the boys of summer in an uncommonly enjoyable setting. “Some first-class ball” is played by “top-ranked college players and class-act up-and-comers.” Many major leaguers got their start here, including former Red Sox players Carlton Fisk and Mo Vaughn. Admission is free, though some teams may ask for a small donation. Don’t have a favorite team? Go to one of the more evocative ballparks. Favorite viewing areas include “sitting in the bleachers at the impeccably-kept Eldredge Park, in Orleans,” or “plunking your lawn chair or blanket behind the backstop at Chatham’s Veterans Field.” For kids, the highlights will certainly be “chasing down foul balls” and “feasting on scrummy ice cream and hot dogs.”

3. Pirate Adventure Cruise (Ocean St. Dock, Slip 4, Hyannis; 508/430-0202; $20/person; mid-June through Labor Day). Wanna play pirate? Six times a day, the skull-and-crossbone festooned Sea Gypsy sets sail in Nantucket Sound, where you can “have a pirate adventure looking for treasure.” There’s an hour or so of onboard fun, including “treasure maps, face painting, pirate sashes, squirt guns, floating skulls, and a terrifically engaging staff.” Book a few days in advance.

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