‘New’ Ireland’s changes go more than skin deep

Brazil in the West
For example, in the western town of Gort (pop. 2,500) half the population is non-Irish, including nearly 900 Brazilians. To the south, in Ennis, Nigerian-born physician Taiwo Matthew became the first immigrant elected to local office when he won a seat on the town council in 2004. A Dublin-based South African dance studio owner, Joshua N. Amaechi, choreographed last year’s St. Patrick’s Day parade in the capital, the country’s largest.

In Portlaoise, Adebari, who arrived here as a refugee, has witnessed a transformation.

When he enrolled his son in the local primary school in 2000, he became the only foreign child out of a student body of around 300. By 2007, the school included more than 30 non-Irish children.

“I’d never have described Portlaoise as the hub of intercultural activities in the country, but that is how it has been in the last four years,” Adebari said.

Warmth and openness?
But the absorption of so many foreigners — especially those who may be nonwhite and non-Catholic — has at times tested Ireland’s reputation for warmth and openness.

Many economic migrants from non-EU countries complain the country appears to have an ad hoc immigration policy that, at best, leads to administrative headaches and, at worst, leads to abuses of vulnerable workers.

“They seem to not know the rules of their own country. One person at Immigration will give you one bit of rules and then the next person will tell you something totally different, which is contrary to what they’ve told you,” said Mark, a professional in his 40s who came to Ireland from a non-EU country three years ago. He spoke on condition his last name wasn't used as he's involved in a lawsuit with a former employer.

But unlike other European countries, Ireland has yet to have any major anti-immigration political parties. Still, acts of racism — and violence — are not unheard of.

John D McHugh / for msnbc.com Sani Mashiya

Sani Mashiya, a 29-year-old from South Africa, was hospitalized for a week after what he called a “racist attack” by a gang of Dublin youths in 2005.

“I mean, I lived in South Africa in very rough places like Jo’burg but I was never attacked, you know,” he said. “There are quite a few (attacks on non-Irish) but maybe they're not publicized as much as they should be.”

In Balbriggan, a Dublin suburb, children of African immigrants found themselves attending an all-black school this fall because the country’s overcrowded education system could not find a place for them in any existing schools. The incident was blamed on a paperwork snafu, but suspicions of racism lingered.

An open question remains how welcome recent arrivals will feel should the Irish economy begin a downturn and the competition for jobs becomes fierce.

The soaring cost of living is already testing Ireland's lure as a base for international companies.

"[The immigrants] have been a solution to the employment situation in recent years when there was extra labor wanted in the country," said Pat Martin, a Dublin wholesale vegetable retailer.

Speaking just steps away from Slattery's, a legendary pub whose staff is now almost entirely Eastern European, and bustling Capel Street, with its profusion of Polish bakeries and Asian foodshops, he noted that the economy seemed to be slowing, "which is not going to encourage [them] to stay.

“They could be going back to their home countries," he added, "or other countries which are booming.”

In Portlaoise, Adebari has tried to head off any future problems by starting a consultancy providing advice on getting immigrants and local residents working together. He hopes that his historic mayoralty will be a model for socially disadvantaged people in Ireland and beyond.

“I took on board the norms and values of the host community without throwing away my own norms and values as well,” Adebari said.

“Now I have two cultures, I can come in and out,” he said.

Straw in the wind
Lenihan, the government minister, called Adebari’s election an “interesting straw in the wind” regarding public sentiment toward immigration.

“He’s as clever and as ingenious as any Irish politician and I think that’s what comes across to the public down there, that this guy — forget about his color, forget about where he’s from or his ethnic identity — this man can deliver the goods in terms of his service to his constituents and his service to the town,” Lenihan said.

Some observers point out that immigration — whether by Celts, Normans, Britons or Vikings — is not a new phenomenon for Ireland.

In fact, the figure who arguably had the greatest single impact on the course of Irish history was a bearded, snake-charming holy man who hailed from Roman-ruled Britain.

His name was St. Patrick.

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