Buenos Aires: Tango, wine, $10 steak and more
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Culture
If you do decide to go on a day trip, always try to get back to Buenos Aires in time for the weekend. That’s when you’ll find the market in San Telmo, the bohemian, funky area with loads of galleries, craft stalls and street performers. Be sure to take a stroll down the main strip of Calle Defensa.
You’ll find everything from butchers cutting meats to antique shops. There are two entrances located at 961 Defensa and Bolívar 998. Here, you will find street tango dancers and the usual flea market attractions. But once again, bring cash and get ready to buy antique brassworks and old pewter.
Most first-time visitors get talked into seeing a tango show. And you can always go to a place like Piazzolla Tango on Calle Florida, where you can catch dinner and a show in a theater setting, for about $75 per person. Don’t miss the collection of artwork located in the building as well. Florida 165, San Martin 170, piazzollatango.com
But my recommendation is to skip the tourist-tailored performances and head instead for any number of local milongas, barrio tango halls that are scattered throughout Buenos Aires. For about $10, you get to sit and watch the Argentines as they show up to dance — and these folks take it seriously. One warning, though: Don’t go before 11 p.m. — so you can always grab a bite to eat first.
Food
You can’t talk about wine without talking about food, and in this, Argentina excels as well. In Buenos Aires, one of the more historic steak restaurants is called La Brigada. It features about 20 different cuts and types of meat, but the signature attraction of this restaurant — located near San Telmo — is twofold.
The meat is so tender that it is carved tableside ... with a spoon. And then, there’s the affordability factor. Recently I took five friends to dinner there. And my friends came hungry. They ordered virtually everything on the menu. Appetizers, entrees, side dishes, wine, after-dinner drinks and, of course, dulce de leche, a diet-killing ice cream. And I was paying. When the bill came, I was expecting a high-six-figure amount. Instead, the tab — including tip — totaled just $104. Try that in any city in the U.S!
Some other restaurant recommendations:
La Cabaña Las Lilas: One of the top steakhouses in Buenos Aires, this restaurant is where you can have an enormous steak dinner starting at $10. Even before you dive into the meat selection, you can snack on the tableful of items like cheese, olives, tomatoes, anchovies and garlic bread. The restaurant raises its own cattle, and you can have an enormous meal starting at just $10. 516 Ave. Alicia Moreau de Justo, Puerto Madero
La Cabrera: This is another top choice for jetsetters and trendsetters, and totally affordable for Americans. It’s located in the Palermo Soho district, and offers a French twist on traditionally Argentine beef. I go here for lunch every time I’m in the city. 54-11-4831-7002, Cabrera 5099, Buenos Aires
Spettus Steak House: You can find more than 20 cuts of meat here, including plenty of barbecued and grilled dishes, along with a wide variety of cheeses. 54 11 43344126, Alicia Moreau de Justo 876, Puerto Madero
Las Cañitas: Did you know that Argentina is also known for gelato? Italian immigrants brought this treat down south and it had a lasting impact. The biggest chains are Freddo and Munchi’s. Visit the Las Cañitas for a wider selection, including Saverio, which serves unusual stuff like pears in Burgundy and kumquats in whiskey. A great standby flavor — actually number one for me — is always dulce de leche.
Gran Bar Danzon: Even if you can’t make it to Mendoza, you can taste incredible Argentine wines right in Buenos Aires. Gran Bar Danzon has one of the biggest wine menus in the city, which you can mix and match to create your own tasting. Libertad 1161, (5411) 4811 1108, www.granbardanzon.com.ar/danzon
Lodging
The neighborhoods of Puerto Madero, Palermo, Centro, Retiro and Recoleta are all good choices.
Marriott Plaza: This is an affordable, centrally located luxury hotel overlooking Plaza San Martin and surrounded by shops and boutiques. Starting rates in mid-May, $195, late August, $215; +(54) 11-4318-3000, Calle Florida 1005
Hotel Madero by Sofitel: Located in Puerto Madero, this 165-room hotel is even more affordable and many rooms have views of the docks. Check out the on-site restaurant Red for Argentine-French fusion cuisine. Rosario Vera Penaloza 360, Dique 2, +(54) 11/5776-7777, hotelmadero.com
Mansion Dandi Royal: This hotel actually offers daily lessons to guests. It’s called the Tango Residential Academy. You can score a three-night tango package for $170 per person. Piedras Street 922-936, mansiondandiroyal.com
Finally, a note about the challenge of getting there: Be a contrarian. Remember, this is southern hemisphere travel, so go during our summer (their winter) for cheaper airfares. But even if there are no real bargains in the air, once on the ground, the low cost of being in Buenos Aires more than positively compensates for the cost of getting there.
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