This summer, transform yourself into a grilling pro

How to build the fire
The easiest way to light any fuel is to use a chimney starter (a metal cylinder with a wire partition in the center). Even if you're using charcoal briquettes, give this method a try. It eliminates the need for lighter fluid and ignites the briquettes more evenly, avoiding unburnt pieces in the center of the pile. "Look for the biggest chimney starter you can find," says Raichlen. "A large one will light enough fuel for a 22 1/2-inch kettle grill." To use a chimney starter:

Put your fuel of choice in the top of the starter and two sheets of newspaper or a paraffin cube in the bottom. (Look for paraffin cubes, which resemble white ice cubes, in hardware stores.) Set the chimney on the bottom grate of the grill, tip it to one side, and light the newspaper or paraffin.
It may take a few minutes for the fuel to catch fire. If you've used newspaper, check for heat after five minutes and, if you feel none, light another sheet. Using a paraffin starter should guarantee that the fuel will light on the first try.
Smoke will billow out of the chimney. Wait approximately 20 minutes until all the coals are glowing red, then dump them onto the bottom of the grill, rake them into position (see below), and replace the top grill grate. If you're searing foods like burgers or steak over high heat, the coals are ready as soon as they start to ash over. If your recipe calls for medium heat, wait a bit longer, until you can hold your hand three inches above the grate for four seconds.

How to arrange the coals
For classic direct grilling, you can simply spread them out evenly. Raichlen likes to leave a section free of coals as a cool "safety zone," where he can move food if it starts to burn.

Story continues below ↓

If you're cooking large or tough cuts of meat like spareribs or brisket, use the indirect grilling method: Rake the coals into two piles on opposite sides of the grill and cook the food in the middle over a foil drip pan. This can also be done on a gas grill by only lighting the outside burners.

What about the grill vents and the hood?
For direct grilling, leave all the grill vents open. For thin pieces of food like chicken cutlets, leave the hood open as well. For thicker pieces like steaks, closing the hood will capture more smoke flavor and decrease the cooking time.

For indirect grilling, the hood should be closed. On a charcoal grill, control the heat using the vents: Partially closing them will deprive the fire of oxygen and lower the heat; completely closing them will put the fire out. Use an oven thermometer inserted into one of the vents to check the temperature. For a gas grill, control the heat by turning the burners up or down.

How do I know when my food is done?
Raichlen favors the "poke test."

Squishy food is still raw in the center.
Soft and yielding food is rare.
Gently yielding food is medium-rare.
Firmly yielding has been cooked to medium.
Firm food is well done.
If fish breaks into clean flakes when gently pressed, it's done.

Other things to bear in mind
Food will continue to cook after it's removed from the grill, so take things off when they are slightly rarer than you want them to be.

Be sure to let meat rest for a few minutes after cooking so the juices can redistribute themselves.

Says Raichlen, "Keep it clean and keep it lubricated!" Brush your grate with a stiff wire brush after preheating (the heat will help remove residue). Then rub it with a paper towel dipped in oil before placing the food on it. When you're done, brush the grate again.

Learn more about grilling on Raichlen's Web site, www.barbecuebible.com.

The equipment mentioned in this article is available at many hardware stores and online at www.weber.com.

Topics

More

Marketplace

This summer, transform yourself into a grilling pro