Aug. 21 — I can’t recall the last time someone poured me a glass of Xinomavro, or offered to share a bottle of Moschofilero, or suggested that a Savatiano might go well with a simple fish dish. If none of this is ringing a wine bell in your mind, you’re not alone. Although wine is deeply rooted in the history and culture of Greece, its modern wines are relatively unknown in this country, even though dozens, if not hundreds of them, are available here.

Which is a shame, I have to say, after sampling a number of wines from Greece in recent weeks. My first recommendation is to block out the word Retsina. The resinous libation that somehow became synonymous with Greek wine has its place. For example, when ordering lunch on a Greek island — the pleasures of grilled fish or freshly caught raw sea urchin on Mykonos and Tinos are still etched in my memory — Retsina is inevitably what you will get, and it serves its purpose.

But there are dozens of other Greek wines to discover — native varieties (some 300 of them) as well as Cabernet Sauvignons, Syrahs, Sauvignon Blancs, Chardonnays and others, often blended with the indigenous wines. In my tastings I preferred some of the wines based on the local Greek varieties, and three of them stood out for their individuality and value.

One of the more exciting reds is from Macedonia in northern Greece — the 2000 Xinomavro from Stelios Kechris in Thessaloniki. With its light ruby, almost transparent color, it has plumy aromas and tastes of blueberry, strawberry, plum and a bit of vanilla. Earthy yet light, it brought to mind both gamay and pinot noir. It is an interesting and attractive wine and a steal at just $10. It would go nicely with grilled chicken, pork, lamb and salmon. It is brought to this country by Amerikus Importers of New York.

Among the whites, I liked a 2002 estate-bottled Moschofilero (that’s the grape) from the Nasiakos winery in the town of Mantinia in the Peloponnese region of southern Greece. The label simply says Mantinia Nasiakos.

Interestingly, Moschofilero is a red-skinned grape from which white wine is made without exposing the juice to the skins. Sam Catechis, who brings the wine here through his company, Stellar Imports of Long Island City, N.Y., explained that the “moscho” in Moschofilero means aromatic in Greek, and the wine is certainly that.

The aromas include orange and a touch of honey. In the mouth I found pear, peach, lemon and pronounced minerals on the lingering finish. This is a light but mouth-filling wine made for fish with lemon and herbs. It was also perfect with some homemade Chinese chicken I made with onions, peppers, minced garlic, bok choy, chopped cilantro and a soy-based stir-fry sauce. It is priced at about $15.

Lastly, a simple, fruity 2002 white made from the ubiquitous Savatiano grape is worth trying at just $8. It is made by Alexandros Megapanos in Attica in central Greece and has pleasing aromas of green apple and tropical fruits that carry over in the mouth. It is also imported by Amerikus.

With the 2004 Summer Olympics in Athens just a year away, Greek wines will undoubtedly be getting more marketing and consumer attention. Based on my sampling, Greece is already winning with some of its wines that are just sitting on the shelves, waiting to be discovered.

© 2012 MSNBC Interactive