Mark Bittman: Cooking for crowds on the fly

1. Heat the oven to 350 degrees F. Butter the bottom and sides of a 2-inch-deep, 10-inch layer cake or springform pan; cover the bottom with a circle of wax or parchment paper, butter the paper, and sift flour over the whole pan; invert and tap to remove the excess flour.

2. Use an electric mixer to cream together the butter and 1/4 cup of the sugar. Separate 3 of the eggs and reserve the whites. Beat in the yolks one at a time, until the mixture is light in color.

3. Grind the nuts in a food processor until they are the consistency of meal. Turn them into a bowl and mix them with 3/4 cup of the remaining sugar and the citrus zest. Beat in 3 whole eggs, one at a time, blending well. Wash the beaters thoroughly and beat the egg whites; when they are foamy, gradually beat in the remaining 1/4 cup sugar, until the whites hold soft peaks.

4. Combine the butter and nut mixtures and stir. Gently fold in the beaten egg whites and pour into the pan. Bake until a toothpick inserted into the center of the cake comes out clean, about 30 minutes. Let cool for 10 minutes, then unmold. Store at room temperature, covered with wax paper, for up to a day or two. (Or wrap it tightly in foil or plastic wrap and freeze it for up to a month. Keep it wrapped and thaw in the fridge overnight or thaw and warm slowly in the microwave or a low oven.)

1. Heat the oven to 425 degrees F. Put the broccoli in a bowl, drizzle on the olive oil, and sprinkle with salt and pepper while tossing to coat; transfer to a gratin dish or any ovenproof dish. Nestle the garlic in the broccoli and cook until the tops are browning and the stems are crisp-tender, 10 to 15 minutes.

2. Remove the dish from the oven and fish out the garlic. Sprinkle the top of the broccoli with the blue cheese and then the bread crumbs. Return to the oven and cook until the cheese is bubbling and the bread crumbs are golden. Serve hot or warm.

1. Heat the oven to 400 degrees F. Put all the ingredients in a food processor and pulse just until the mixture resembles a coarse meal; do not overprocess. (You can also use a pastry cutter or a fork to cut the mixture to the same consistency in a bowl.) Wrap the dough in plastic and refrigerate until you're ready to bake the puffs. (Or roll the ball into two logs, wrap tightly and freeze for up to a month.)

2. Form the dough into 1-inch balls. (Or cut the frozen dough crosswise into 1/4-inch slices). Put the balls or slices on a lightly greased or parchment-lined baking sheet, leaving 2 inches between them. Slightly flatten each ball with your fingers. Bake until the pastries puff and turn golden brown, 10 to 15 minutes. Cool completely on a wire rack, then sprinkle with additional paprika and serve.

1. Combine the meat in a bowl with the egg, cheese, parsley, onion and a sprinkling of salt and pepper. Mix well but do not knead. Form into tiny balls, about 1/2 inch in diameter, and put on cookie sheets. Refrigerate until you're ready to cook, or up to several hours. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and salt it.

2. Cook the meatballs in the boiling water for about 5 minutes; remove with a slotted spoon and keep warm. Cook the pasta, if you're using it, in the same water until tender but not mushy. Meanwhile, cook the butter and sage together in a small pan over medium-low heat until the butter is light brown, about 5 minutes. Drain the pasta, reserving a bit of the cooking water, then toss it with the butter-sage mixture and enough of the reserved water to make the mixture saucy. Top with the meatballs and serve, passing more Parmesan at the table.

1. Heat a griddle or large skillet over medium-low heat while you make the batter.

2. Mix together the dry ingredients. Beat the eggs into 1/2 cup of the milk, then stir in the 2 tablespoons cooled melted butter if you're using it. Gently stir this mixture into the dry ingredients, mixing only enough to moisten the flour; don't worry about a few lumps. If the batter seems thick, add a little more milk.

3. Use a little butter or oil each time you add batter, unless your skillet is truly nonstick. When the butter foam subsides or the oil shimmers, ladle batter onto the griddle or skillet, making any size pancakes you like. Adjust the heat as necessary; usually, the first batch will require higher heat than subsequent batches. The idea is to brown the bottom in 2 to 4 minutes, without burning it. Flip when bubbles appear in the center of the pancakes and the bottoms are cooked; they won't hold together well until they're ready.

4. Cook until the second side is lightly browned, a couple more minutes, and serve or hold on an ovenproof plate in a 200-degree-F oven for up to 15 minutes.